determine your maximum mortgage amount, lenders use guidelines called
debt-to-income ratios. This is simply the percentage of your monthly gross
income (before taxes) that is used to pay your monthly debts. Because there are
two calculations, there is a “front” ratio and a “back”
ratio and they are generally written in the following format: 33/38.
front ratio is the percentage of your monthly gross income (before taxes) that
is used to pay your housing costs, including principal, interest, taxes,
insurance, mortgage insurance (when applicable) and homeowners association fees
(when applicable). The back ratio is the same thing, only it also includes your
monthly consumer debt. Consumer debt can be car payments, credit card debt,
installment loans, and similar related expenses. Auto or life insurance is not
considered a debt.
guideline for debt-to-income ratios is 33/38. A borrower’s housing costs
consume thirty-three percent of their monthly income. Add their monthly
consumer debt to the housing costs, and it should take no more than
thirty-eight percent of their monthly income to meet those obligations.
guidelines are just guidelines and they are flexible. If you make a small down
payment, the guidelines are more rigid. If you have marginal credit, the
guidelines are more rigid. If you make a larger down payment or have sterling
credit, the guidelines are less rigid. The guidelines also vary according to
loan program. FHA guidelines state that a 29/41 qualifying ratio is acceptable.
VA guidelines do not have a front ratio at all, but the guideline for the back
ratio is 41.
If you make $5000 a month, with 33/38 qualifying ratio guidelines, your maximum
monthly housing cost should be around $1650. Including your consumer debt, your
monthly housing and credit expenditures should be around $1900 as a maximum.
Step One – Calculating Your Monthly Income
loan officer prequalifies you, he works backwards to figure your maximum
mortgage amount. You can do the same thing. The first step is to determine your
monthly income. It isn’t quite as easy as it sounds. Lenders only count income
they can document through paperwork.
are a salaried employee, and don’t earn bonuses, it’s easy. Get out your
paycheck. If you get paid twice a month, multiply by two. If you are paid every
two weeks, then you multiply by 26 (the number of pay periods in a year) and
divide by twelve. Unless you’re a teacher. Teachers don’t always work year
round and they have special rules.
are an hourly employee who works a straight forty hours a week and don’t earn
overtime income, then it’s easy, too. Look at your paycheck, multiply your
hourly rate by 40, multiply that total by 52, then divide by twelve.
earn overtime, bonuses, or commissions — it isn’t as easy. Lenders don’t give
you credit for what you are currently earning. They average your income from
those sources over the last two years, then add that to your regular salary or
hourly monthly income. If you want a shortcut that is usually close, get out
your W2 forms for the last two years. Add them together and divide by
twenty-four. That is your monthly income.
are a teacher, a nurse, a seasonal employee, in construction, or earn only
part-time income — you can use that shortcut, too. Add the figures from your
last two years W2’s, then divide by 24. It generally gets you close.
are self-employed or receive 1099 income, then you need a two-year track
record. Lenders go by what you declare to the IRS as income, since that is
documentable. Since some self-employed people overstate their expenses, this
may understate your income. Look at the Schedule C of your tax returns for the
last two years and the number at the bottom that says “profit” is
your annual income. You can add any depreciation to that figure. Add them
together and divide by twenty-four.
are variations and exceptions (like those who own their own corporations) but
the above should cover most people.
Step Two – Working Backward
have calculated your monthly income, multiply it by the back ratio for your
particular loan. For generic purposes, it is fairly easy to work with
thirty-eight. Take 38% of your monthly income or multiply it by .38. That tells
you the maximum the lender wants you to spend on your housing costs and monthly
consumer debt combined.
out your bills and total them up to determine what you spend monthly on debt.
Do not include your auto insurance or your utilities. Just creditors. For
credit cards, use the minimum required monthly payment unless it is less than
ten dollars. The rest should be fairly straightforward.
that amount from the total the lender wants you to spend on housing costs and
consumer debt combined. Now you know the maximum the lender wants you to spend
for housing costs, unless the figure is greater than 33% of your monthly income
(there are exceptions, of course).
Step Three – a Little Guesswork
step requires a little guesswork. If you have a vague idea of what price you
might qualify for, you can estimate what your annual property taxes and
homeowners insurance might cost. From there, you can easily calculate the
monthly equivalent. Subtract those figures from your maximum monthly housing
are buying a condominium (or an area with HOA fees), subtract out an
approximate figure to cover homeowners association fees. What you are left with
is your maximum principal and interest payment.
The Final Step – Almost
have to go to a mortgage calculator (click here) and plug in some numbers. In
the “payment” area, put the figure you just calculated. Plug in the
current fixed interest rate. If you are putting less than twenty percent down,
add a half percent to the rate to allow for charges you will pay for mortgage
calculate button and you should have your maximum mortgage amount. Add your
down payment and you know your maximum purchase price.
You may have to do some fine-tuning to zero in on the exact figure. Plus,
lenders know how to “stretch” a client a bit higher if they need it.
figure is less than you expected (or need), lenders know programs that will
help “boost” you higher in qualifying. Plus, they will do what you
just did for free, they are much more experienced at the various nuances
involved, and you will have no obligation to use them as your lender.
have to do is pick up the yellow pages and a phone.
copyright 2000 by Terry Light and RealEstate ABC